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The runway, your way

From suits-all brights to the new eyeliner trick, make hot-off-the-catwalk looks work for you

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The tailored tightline

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    Whether you usually favour a crisp line or a smokier smudge, it’s time to get out your little black pencil and try ‘tightlining’ – the hottest way to wear eyeliner this season. ‘Women usually apply black liner just above their upper lashes and under the lower ones, but this season it’s all about focusing it on the waterline – the rims of the lid, which touch your eye,’ explains make-up artist Jaimee Thomas, who created our looks. ‘I call it beauty’s version of the LBD: it’s the new go-to for a night out, and flatters every eye shape. If you find it makes your peepers look small, apply it to the upper waterline only.’ Jaimee’s tips for application? ‘Curl upper lashes first to get them out of the way, and use a kohl pencil – the creamier the texture, the more easily it will glide along the waterline.’

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    THE ‘WOW’ TWEAK: ‘Apply a sliver of silver liner just under lower lashes, starting at the inner corner of the eye and finishing in line with your pupil,’ says Jaimee. ‘A dab of iridescent, silvery eyeshadow at the inner corner will give an extra pop.’

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Ready-to-wear rose

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    Pink is set to be autumn’s favourite make-up shade. But unlike the full-on pops of fuchsia we enjoyed over the summer, the new-season version is soft and more wearable. ‘This is a trend for every day,’ says Jaimee. ‘It’s up to you whether you use the colour all over – on eyes, cheeks and lips, which will give your complexion a natural-looking flush – or you focus on just one feature, such as your pout.’

     

    Whichever way you decide to wear it, pair your rosy make-up with a barely-there base that works with your natural skin tone. ‘Avoid bronzer and heavy-coverage foundation,’ advises Jaimee. ‘Choose a base with a dewy finish, which will catch the natural highlights on cheeks and brow bones. Add a pop of blush, too – to keep things looking ultra-natural, opt for a shade that’s similar to the colour you go when you run for a bus.’

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    THE WOW TWEAK: ‘Press on lipstick with your index finger,’ says Jaimee. ‘A drawn-on lip line combined with colour applied straight from the bullet can feel old-fashioned and a little harsh. I skipped the liner step and blurred the edges of the pout with a cotton bud, to soften the finish and prevent it looking overpowering.’

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Bespoke brights

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    This season’s biggest make-up surprise? Bold, vibrant eye colours that are usually reserved for summer. ‘Brights are definitely a “thing” for AW17,’ revealed catwalk make-up artist Terry Barber while backstage at the Byblos show. But how do you work out which ones will suit your skin tone or eye colour? ‘There are no strict rules when it comes to choosing,’ reassures Jaimee. ‘You just need to tailor them to your mood. If you want to be daring, why not clash two eye colours at a time and cover the whole lid? Or for a more everyday take on the trend, a vivid line drawn underneath lower lashes is bold yet wearable, and suits anyone while still making quite a statement.

     

    ‘The grass-green shade that I’ve chosen here will flatter all skin tones,’ continues Jaimee. ‘Just add a wash of nude shadow over lids to create an even colour and focus on the liner. Finish with one coat of black mascara, applied to upper lashes only.’

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    THE ‘WOW’ TWEAK: To keep this look grown-up, skip the blusher and use a highlighter on cheeks to add sheen, rather than colour,’ says Jaimee. ‘And stick to a natural stain on lips, which won’t try to compete with the eye colour.’

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Words Donna Francis Photography Oliver Shearing, Jason Lloyd-Evans, Pixeleyes Make-up Jaimee Thomas, Natalie Piacun Hair Amanda Thorell Nails Chisato Models Tosin at IMM, Wei at Nevs, Femke at Wilhelmina
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